Thursday, April 1, 2010

Goodbye Lenin's Head!

Foreigners are not the novelty they once were in today’s Ulan-Ude. Clearly, this has some advantages. There is no, shall we say, ‘bearded lady’ effect, with locals constantly coming over for meet-and-greets (although this was probably only true in the first couple of years after the breakup of the USSR). This is due to a couple of factors: there are a number of academics studying Buryatia in the States; exchange programs have been established for the environmental protection of Lake Baikal, including the Tahoe-Baikal Institute; and Buryats, as a fairly integrated and cosmopolitan member of the Russian House of Culture have travelled widely. I found that in Elista (and, so far, in Kyzyl, Tuva’s capital) an element of curiosity remains, and that this is helpful in terms of getting research done and establishing local contacts with other scholars.

In Buryatia, I was pleased with the research I got done in the short time I was there, even if I was no longer unique. Of course, there is always the feeling that there is more to do and things are being left undone. I held one focus group during the two weeks. Last Tuesday, I met with a group of English language students and their teacher after class, working through the focus group questions on religion, holidays, and the role of the Dalai Lama. One student told me that she goes to the Buddhist temple with some frequency (a couple of times a week), and this is especially true when she has a big exam coming up. This “finding” of faith in times of need is not surprising, though it was interesting that, when I asked her what religion she practiced, she responded that she is of two minds, by which she meant that she ascribes to both Buddhism and Christianity. The temple, however, is in her neighborhood, and is therefore convenient.

One of these temples, which my local contact Vladimir Antonov referred to as the Rimpoche Center, is sited on top of one of the many hills surrounding Ulan-Ude. Think Los Angeles, only with the pollution coming from the coal plant rather than cars (although these contribute as well, no doubt). The view was fantastic through the smog, and I was able to snap a few photos of real derevni dom (though I did not use the outhouse). I also sat in on the afternoon prayer service at the datsan, and was the only male to do so. I wrapped up my time in Ulan-Ude on Friday with a visit to the city’s branch campus of the Eastern Siberian, where I spoke to two classes briefly about my research, and then about what life is like in America. Both groups were interested in race relations between blacks and whites in the States; I tried my best in my not-quite fluent Russian to explain the historical difficulties and contemporary nuances of this question. It’s harder than it sounds.